Coil Gun Pistol - Learn how to make a simple coilgun using a few readily available parts. Expect to spend over a week on this and may need a few energy supplies (Just to make good projectiles). I built my first one in just a week after I had all the parts.
Coilguns (Pulse Accelerators), as well as Linear Accelerators (Linear Accelerators), use strong electric fields to propel objects at incredible speeds unattainable by modern gas-powered weapons (with enough stored energy, of course). This coil gun is known as a reluctance coil gun. The moon uses its electric field to attract a ferromagnetic projectile, in this case a round metal shaped like its core. Basically, the electricity that supports the electric field will shut off once the projectile is in the middle, allowing the projectile to continue down the barrel, eject the gun, and to the target. Use a wire and a few batteries to better understand the properties of this system. Most coilguns include multiple stages at low power levels because the process is almost dead as more stored energy is used to design a single coil. For more information, visit step 5.
Coil Gun Pistol
A relay is a simple electrical device. It uses an electromagnet to pull two contacts of a separate circuit together, completing the circuit and allowing current to flow.
Coilgun Without Massive Capacitors. Finished
A relay was originally used to allow a machine or computer to turn something on or off electronically. This process is used to change the power of the capacitor in the coil.
Relays allow more current to flow than conventional pushbutton switches, which are often wired together. You can use a high-end toggle switch for this, but it's usually much more expensive and larger than a relay of the same class.
20 or 22 awg bonding wire (buy both solid and coiled)
Magnet wire 22-20 awg (Depends on coil selection; see step 2) at least 100 feet for wire gauge greater than 7)
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Relay (electronic switch), preferably 30 amps or more (I got a 12VDC/30A SPST automotive relay from Radio Shack, but would recommend higher voltage and current)
Momentary switch (I used a 3/4" roller SPDT switch from Radio Shack, but you can use a lower end switch)
On/Off switch (I used a DPDT Heavy-Duty rocker switch from Radio Shack, but you can use a lower-end switch)
Battery Packs (More than 2 2AA holders and 1 9V holder)(2AA batteries are better)(I suggest getting several 2 C battery holders as they give more power to the charger, resulting in VERY fast charge times. ; be careful not to overcharge your chargers, see the last step for a secure charger and battery compartments.
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Straws from Burger king/Brahms or (You can use other straws, but the diameter of the string will vary; Of course, if you choose a smaller straw, the smaller projectile will travel faster, but won't have as much impact, aka momentum) Again, small. Straws can be used to line the back of your projectile for stability, this works well.
Large nails or low carbon steel round bar cut to length (1/4 to 5/16 inch diameter or bring to Home Depot to fit a real nail)
A bolt, two washers and a nut. (The bolt should be as wide as possible, and the washer should fit well and be as wide as possible)
The PAR-1 video shows the kinetic output of a 22awg, 30mm long, 12-layer magnet wire coil with a 470uF 400V capacitor (charged to 450V), only 50 joules!
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Mouser Probably the best seller I've ever come across, huge selection of items, best prices for a non-retail electronics site, and great management and organization.
The first step is to get rid of the trash. First, disassemble the Kodak cameras using a screwdriver to open the case from the side. Remove everything except the middle plastic part that holds the board (BE CAREFUL, OR don't panic in any way unless you are wearing gloves, good idea for the faint of heart (literally)) Make sure the battery is dead. then touch the leads of the capacitor together with a screwdriver to remove it, the capacitor is a cylindrical device with two wires coming out of it, the location shown is the second picture.
The chargers themselves are not very powerful, but when you connect them together in the same way as shown in the last picture, you increase the output power that the chargers can use. Increasing the number and size of the battery (to 3V) will increase the output of the charger (to a certain extent) until the chargers are baked.
The chargers are connected in series, that is, each terminal is connected to the same terminal of the nearest charger as shown in the picture. I don't recommend connecting the charger in series, so don't worry about it.
Coil Gun By Paganee On Deviantart
Look and read the picture descriptions, the pictures show you how to make your own chargers better than I can explain.
First take your circuit and use wire cutters and cut out the section defined by the small transformer on the top right of the circuit (this includes the transistor and diode) (see image for info). Connect the sockets as described in the picture.
Camera circuits are usually inefficient, ie. 16% in my review, if you want your gun to charge faster and with less battery, check out my DC to DC HV Boost Converter.
Credit for the mini charger idea goes to Instructables member "245Tommy" who found it on your tube member "Halo2maniaccc". Thank you both
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Remember: the flux/rosin (used to improve the "stick") of the solder is important here. You don't need it, but it helps a lot.
Where C is the capacitance in microfarads (uF) and V is the capacitor charging voltage in volts.
I use plexiglass washers made with a hole saw and drill. This allows you to apply each adhesive to the plastic backings in such a way that the string feels good when removed from it. If you decide to have a plastic washer, you can thread the starter wire through the wood or a hole cut in the back of the plastic washer, this helps a lot with winding.
Now take a straw or piece of paper and cut it 1-2 mm longer than the desired thread length. Place the end washers on the screw and place a thread or paper over the screw as shown in the picture, if the thread does not fit over the screw just cut it to length. as shown.
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Thread the end of your magnet wire through the middle of your washer and leave about 2-3 inches of wire coming out the other end. Wrap the threaded wire around the head of the screw to secure it in place. Now start twisting the hose clockwise or counterclockwise around the screw. DO NOT switch from clockwise to clockwise or counter clockwise, always wind on the same side around the bolt or your thread will not work. Continue winding until you reach the other end, secure the wire with your thumb and if you have tape, tap firmly on the floor, if using super glue DO NOT glue the first layer, this will stick the wire to the straw or paper.
To keep the second layer rolling, go around the same way you started and return to the other end of the thread above the first layer. When you get to the other side of the glue or mounting tape and continue winding in the same clockwise or counterclockwise direction back and forth along the length of the thread. Finish the thread as perfectly as possible and keep the wire as perpendicular to the screw as possible.
When you're done, tape or tape the assembly as tightly as possible and leave it for a few hours. Then, as carefully as possible, remove the thread from the winder and use pliers to remove the inside of the straw or paper.
Making the Gun Hold Open the plastic handle and hot glue the inside of the roller switch so that the switch makes a, well, wave. Add holes on the back and attach the wires to the switch (1, 3) and insert the wires into the holes. Close the handle and if you hear a click when you pull, the machine should be working.
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This relay will have 4 contacts, although some seem to have others, if the location of the electromagnet is unknown, use a 9V-12V source in every possible connection to
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